McArthur-Burney Falls: The Waterfall That Doesn’t Dry Up

Background: I had seen a picture of a friend standing in front of a waterfall, and I thought: I must go there! After discovering that the waterfall, McArthur-Burney Falls, eponymous with the state park, was a relatively close drive from Lassen Volcanic National Park, I seized the chance and was so glad I spent the afternoon here.

There are several ways to get to the waterfall since the trail is a loop. Most people head to the lookout, descend the path to the waterfall and climb back up the same route. I took the longer way around and wanted to visit the waterfall up close last and to enjoy my lunch there.

I took a sneak peak at the lookout point and was floored. Look at all that water! (As I’m still catching up from last year’s adventures, a reminder that this was in August 2015 where the California drought was very intense.)

Where does all that water come from? There are several helpful informational signs at the visitor center, around the parking lot and along the trail that tell the history of the place and the geological features. The source comes largely from the snowmelt of nearby Burney Mountain. Since this region was volcanically formed, there are several rock layers that contribute to the waterfalls (that are a part of Burney Creek). Snowmelt and rainfall seep through the ground, which then flows through porous basalt that retains most of the water. The water flows through underground channels until it hits some non-porous (solid) rock, where most of the water is then forced upward where the creek springs to life about 3/4 mile upstream from the waterfall.

After the lookout, I continued and came across the first bridge that crossed Burney Creek, also known as Fishermen’s Bridge, where I caught a first glimpse of the source of Burney Falls.

The trail continues for a short bit before reaching a junction. Take the trail to the left to go on the Pacific Crest Trail and take the trail on the right to head to the waterfall. Continue along dirt paths like the one below until the trail starts making switchbacks down the hillside back to stream level. The trail passes Burney Falls; don’t worry, the trail will lead back to the waterfall.

At the junction for bridge #2, also known as Rainbow Bridge, the trail continues straight to PSEA Camp, which according to the map (near the trailhead), is a private spot. Instead, cross the bridge and catch beautiful sights like this one. That little kid is so mesmerized by the rush of flowing water. At this bridge, I also dipped my hands into the cold water and felt somewhat purified knowing that this water was mostly unspoiled freshwater.

After crossing the bridge, there are some strange rock piles which there was no sign saying what it was for. The trail to the left leads to Lake Britton, while taking the trail to the right, now paved, heads upstream back to Burney Falls.

At this point, there were a lot more people enjoying the falls than I expected. People were sunbathing, reading books, meditating, enjoying the splendor, and even swimming up close to the falls. There is no direct path to the pool – hop and jump over the rocks to get to your desired spot. I set my backpack down and ate my lunch in bliss. The warmth of the sun, the mist from the falls, the slight, cool breeze, the roar of the waterfalls, and the blues of the water all coordinated to form this beautiful indelible memory.

The switchback hike back up to the parking lot left me feeling bittersweet and every 5 seconds, I would glance back at the waterfall, wondering when I would be back again. I was also feeling sadness, knowing that my trip to upper Northern California was coming to an end, as this was the last place to visit before heading home. I went to the lookout again and was still in complete awe. At the parking lot, it felt incredibly warm and hot and I already missed the coolness of sitting by the waterfalls. I think places that are most treasured are best enjoyed by sitting and enjoying the moment, with no other plans in mind.

I also several of these critters 🙂

Would I go here again? Was it worth the 5 hour drive back to the Bay Area? Definitely a resounding yes. There are some places where visiting once is enough, and then there’s McArthur-Burney Falls which is worth a second (or multiple) trip back.

Bonus photos: the view of the area from a roadside vista point somewhere along Highway 299, just south of the town of Burney along the grade.